On our second full day in Oaxaca we had arranged for a tour of “Monte Alban, Black Clay and Alebrijes” from Free Tour Oaxaca. This excursion wasn’t exactly “free” but at $20 per person for a full day tour, it was certainly affordable. We’re usually more independent travelers when in Mexico but have used the company “Free Tour” in both Oaxaca and Puebla and would definitely recommend them as a reasonable lower cost alternative.
We were picked up at our hotel by our bi-lingual guide in an air conditioned van. Six people from our small hotel and roughly the same number from another center city hotel made up the bulk of our group.
Shortly after departing the city center we stopped in Cuilapan de Guerrero for a short visit to the Ex-Monastery of Santiago Apóstol. The roof of the main basilica collapsed long ago but it remains an impressive example of 16th Century Dominican (Spanish Colonial) architecture. There are multiple structures in various state of ruin to examine. The complex location lends itself to a beautiful view of the Oaxaca countryside.
From there we traveled about half an hour to Monte Albán. Parking is in a lot a little below the entrance requiring a short uphill walk to the visitor center/museum. This is a large complex with numerous buildings and platforms on multiple levels that requires some level of physical fitness but doesn’t require over-the-top exertion.
At its height, this was the largest most powerful Zapotec city of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. Some of the architecture is very impressive and quite different from the Mayan style we are more familiar with in our travels in Chiapas, Yucatan and Quintana Roo.
The central courtyard is massive and is an indication of just how important a place this was and its location on high ground gives an awe inspiring view of the surrounding valley below and mountains in the distance.
We were quite pleased with the Free Tour guide and having a guide to explain some of what we were seeing was a bonus to visiting the ruins.
Upon departing Monte Albán, we drove along some tight bumpy roads and eventually reached the village of San Antonio Arrazola, where virtually everyone is a part of the manufacture or trade of alebrijes, the colorfully painted carved wood creatures that have been a favorite souvenir of so many tourists.
Each piece, even the ones of a common subject are unique and we couldn’t help ourselves from buying a few small pieces to give as gifts. From our first visits to Mexico over 30 years ago we have seen alebrijes displayed all over the country and it was nice to see them where the craft is actually practiced.
But the other item for sale at the showroom we visited was something we hadn’t ever seen before: Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars painted in the same colors and by some of the same artisans. After exposure to these shoes we’ve come to realize that this art form is gaining in popularity and even saw a poster advertising an exhibit in a prestigious Mexico City art museum. We were tempted but did not make a purchase. FYI…the shoes we saw were priced at $120 USD per pair.
The tour included a lunch stop at Los Huípíles Restaurant in San Pedro Ixtlahuaca about half an hour outside of Oaxaca Centro. You can read more about that in our Oaxaca Restaurants 2019 page.
Our last stop of the day was in San Bartolo Coyotepec to visit Alfareria Doña Rosa black clay pottery workshop and showroom. There are lots and lots of other workshops in the village making similar products but Doña Rosa is credited with creating the technique in the 1950s that produces the black shiny surface local black pottery is famous for. We saw an extended demonstration of the process and then an extended period of shopping for souvenirs to take home with us.
All-in-all, it was a good day and certainly worth the $20 price.